Newsletter #9

Weekly Newsletter
May 23, 2005

So you want to retire to Panama.
Newsletter #9 Volume #1
Altos del Maria Update and Cielito Sur

Altos del Maria Update

In the April 25 Newsletter I wrote about Altas del Maria and mentioned a concern I had about access. One of my readers wrote me about it and also inquired on a Yahoo newsgroup, where she was told that access was no problem, that there was a second way out through Chica in case the road caved in again. OK, I make mistakes, and I could have been wrong about there being only one paved road in and out of Altas del Maria, and maybe I'm being a fussduddy worrying about the potential for landslides in the mountains in a country with a lot of rain. So, I figured the only way to settle the matter in my mind was to make a second inspection trip. My wife had been wanting to see Chica anyway. I'll cover the Chica trip in a later newlsetter, but suffice it to say we did indeed find a 'road' that Chica residents assured us would take us to the road leading to Sora and Altas del Maria. They were also quick to assure us that we would never be able to negoiate it in our front wheel drive Chevrolet Vivant. After getting a look at the Chica end of it, we were in complete agreement. I even have some doubts that a lone 4X4 could make it over some of the steep red-clay hills when wet.

We decided to check out the other end of the road, which we were told was close to Sora. Since the road, to be useful, would have to start on the Sora road above the landslide area, we started looking after crossing the Chame River and passing the slide area. A kilometer or so above the river we came to a paved road turnoff, with signs for the Loma Linda Orchid Nursery. We crossed a second one-lane bridge in need of some repair and began a climb through some of the most beautiful country either of us has ever seen in Panama. Reaching a small settlement, we asked a young lady if the road went all the way to Chica and were informed that it went only as far as the nursery. She also informed us that the road to Chica could be found in Buenos Aires, which is about 3 kilometers below the river and slide area. We reluctantly left the breathtaking beauty of the area and drove back to Buenos Aires, passing the slide area and crossing the river. We saw nothing resembling a paved road, and stopped in Buenos Aires to ask directions. We were assured that what we thought was a dirt road about one kilometer back toward Sora was the road to Chica. We discovered that the 'dirt road' had a thin layer of gravel on it, but we have no idea how far the graveled part went. We only know that it doesn't make it to Chica.

So, I repeat my earlier caution. If you are considering buying property in Altos del Maria you should take into account the fact that you could find yourself unable to get into or out of it on occasion. If you intend to live there, a good off-road 4X4 should be considered mandatory. Oh, and by the way, we spotted another place on the road not far from the 'road' to Chica where the roadbed is beginning to wash away underneath the asphalt. A small part of it is gone already and someone has thoughtfully placed a stick with a red rag in the hole.

Cielito Sur

We drove through David and turned right at the Concepcion exit. We continued through Volcan and Bambito, past the Bambito Hotel on the right, the trout ranch, and Cabanas Kucickas on the left to Nueva Suissa, and turned in at the Cielito Sur sign.

Superlatives fail me, so I will simply say that Hostal Cielito Sur (http://www.cielitosur.com/) is the nicest place I ever spent two days. Located on 2.5 hectares of land nestled up against the mountain in Nueva Suissa between Bambito and Cerro Punta on the slope of Panama's magnificant Volcan Baru, this world class bed and breakfast is run by two old friends, Janet and Glenn Lee.

As we drove through the gate we were greeted by a pack of Chihuahuas. I stopped the car to make sure of not running over any of them, then continued slowly. Our noisy escort yapped us into a parking spot, and as we got out of the car we learned that they were a welcoming committee, not a home defense team. All except one protective matron scrambled to be picked up and petted. We counted five and later learned that there are a total of seven ranging in age from a few months to 15 years.

Glenn and Janet met us and after checking us in, escorted us to our room. There are four guest rooms at Cielito Sur, each tastefully decorated with native craft. Ours was the Kuna room and featured some very high quality molas. There are also Woonan Embera, Teribe, and Ngoble Bugle rooms, each finished in the appropriate theme and displaying the touch of an accomplished decorator. None are air conditioned, nor is air conditioning needed as Mother Nature has provided some very comfortable climate control. Daytime temperatures rarely rise above 70 degrees F and nighttime sees high 50s or low 60s, though it can get colder. All four rooms have on-demand water heaters, space heaters in the bathrooms for those chilly mornings, and ample blankets for the beds.

There is a large room in the center of the guest quarters where one can relax in front of a working fireplace, read a book from the well-stocked swap library, watch a movie from the large collection of DVDs, or use the Macintosh iMac computer. The large patio area has tables and chairs for fresh air relaxing, or you can cross the small spring-fed stream and go to the small ranchito and lie in a hammock.

For those who want to unwind after a hard day of hiking or sightseeing, there is a hottub, but you should let them know you want to use it the day before, as it takes a while to heat the water.

Janet and Glenn have some simple rules which all guests are expected to follow.

Respect the privacy and tranquility of others.

No pets.

Turn off lights when not in use.

No smoking in the rooms. This is the biggy and while Janet and Glenn are tolerant of smokers, even providing ashtrays in the outside areas, breaking this rule will result in your stay being cut short. We applaud them for it.

Breakfast is served from 7:30 to 9:30 AM, and we highly recommend you take advantage of it. The coffee is grown, picked, roasted, ground, and brewed right on the premises, and I rate it some of the best I've tasted. Our first day we feasted from a menu listing Smoked Tuna Omelet (tuna caught by a friend and smoked by Glenn) or Vegetable Omelet (made from eggs gathered by Janet the previous evening), breakfast sausage from Volcan, French Toast, 5 varieties of home-baked bread, 5 cheeses, watermelon, cantalope, banana, pineapple, fresh fruit juices, homemade jellies and jams, homemade yoghurt, and assorted cereals. As if the delicious food weren't enough, we were treated to the sight of dozens of hummingbirds just outside the windows. Janet also has a large collection of Tagua Nut Carvings on display in the dining area.

There are so many varieties of hummingbirds that I couldn't keep up with them as they flitted about and visited one or the other of the many feeders. From tiny Scintillants, hardly larger than my thumb, to large Violet Saberwings over 6 inches long, they seem to fill the air. Despite the abundance of flowers and sugar-water feeders, spats and squabbles were frequent. The smallest hover while drinking but the larger ones perch on the feeders. Glenn and Janet provide more than a gallon of the sugar and water mix every day.

Cielito Sur is a must-stay if you are going to be in the Volcan area for more than a day or so, especially if you are as nuts about hummingbirds as I am. To arrange a stay, visit their website which is linked above.

For pictures of Cielito Sur, visit our website at http://www.panamaretire.net/graphics/cielito_sur/index.html.

If you find our newsletter interesting and/or helpful, please forward it to friends you think might like to receive it. If you received this from a friend and would like to subscribe, drop me a note at retire@panamaretire.net.