Weekly
Newsletter #59
June 12, 2006
The
Web's Only Peer-Reviewed Panama Newsletter
Decameron, El Valle, Fishing
Decameron Resort
My brother Richard and his wife Tammie had never been to Panama,
so I figured a nice beach resort would be a winner. We were lucky
enough to make reservations while Decameron was offering a special
off-season rate of $39.00 per night. You won't find this rate on their
website,
(http://www.decameron.com/Destinations/Panama/rdecameron_panama.html)
but it's available in Panama from mid-February through the end of May.
I'm not going to spend a lot of time telling you about the activities
available at Decameron. You can read about that on their website. I
will caution you to take with a large helping of salt the "5 Star"
claims.
We had rooms on the third floor at beach level and they were nice
enough, but ours came with only one drinking glass and housekeeping
never did show up with more. We ended up going to one of the beach bars
and getting some plastic glasses so we didn't have to share. There are
no ice dispensers to be found nor anything to put it in if you go to
the restaurant and beg some ice, as Nora did. You also won't find a
coffee maker in the rooms, so if you like to get up before dawn, have a
cuppa, then go for a walk on the beach, bring you own thermos and fill
it the night before.
Don't expect to find any gourmet food in any of the restaurants.
Speaking of which, the reservation system for any of the theme
restaurants, to be charitable, sucks. To have a chance at one of the
more popular restaurants, you have to appear in person at one of the
reception areas at 7:00 am and stand in line to make reservations. They
do accept telephone reservations from your room after 9:00 am, by which
time most of the slots are filled. We stuck to the two buffet style
restaurants and never went hungry, but except for breakfast, found the
food to be similar to what you find in an institution-style eatery. The
table wines are so-so.
Richard, Tammie, and Nora went for a banana boat ride and Nora, who is
terrified of the water believes the boat driver deliberately flipped
them. Even though she had actually loosened up a bit and was enjoying
the ride, being flipped and landing in the ocean spoiled the experience
for her. Our late-night walk on the beach was spoiled by a security
guard who took exception to us walking ankle-deep in the water. There
is no night swimming, the beach closes at 5:30 pm and the pools at 8:00
pm.
If you really like the beach, free booze and cigarettes, and don't mind
mediocre food, Decameron Resort is a bargain at the $39.00
all-inclusive rate. I consider it a rip-off at $79.00 per night.
El Valle de Anton - El Nispero
I love El Valle. It's clean, friendly, and a lot cooler than the city.
I've written about it before (Newsletter #4) and there is a picture
page on the website.
We left Decameron at 11:00 am and drove to El Valle where we first
visited the market and bought a few souvenirs. We had lunch at Tio
Pepe's and while the menu still has 'Platos Criollas' (complete meals)
in the $3.00~$4.00 range, the owner/waiter/cook/bottle washer suggested
several 'Specials' which turned out to be $6.00~$9.00 meals with main
courses different from the 'Platos Criollas' but with the same side
dishes. My advice is to stick with the regular Criolla meals and leave
the overpriced tourist specials for the tourists. The food was
excellent.
El Nispero is a fantastic private nature park nestled against the side
of the volcanic crater, and gets its name from the many tall Nispero
trees. There is a large nursery and an orchid house, but the big
attraction for us kids of all ages is the zoo. With cages arranged at
intervals along the well-marked trail, you can see some of Panama's
native wildlife and a fair sized collection of exotic birds from as far
away as Vietnam. The large aviary has Guacamayas, said to have been
part of Noriega's private collection, and other large parrots. One of
the Peacocks was trying to attract the attention of a Peahen while we
were there and treated us to a fine display.
I consider El Nispero to be a must-see in El Valle.
Fishing Trip
No first trip to Panama would be complete without a day fishing for
Peacock Bass, so I called my friend Dennis Melton (278--1683) and
reserved his pontoon boat and guide. Dennis has the best-condition
pontoon boat in Arenosa, and while you can go fishing cheaper, you
won't find a more reliable or more comfortable boat. I consider it well
worth a little extra for the peace of mind that comes with a
well-maintained boat. The boat with guide goes for $150.00 per day.
Dennis just installed a new 40 hp Mercury 4-stroke outboard and new
railings and is having a new top sewn.
We caught plenty of fish, keeping 53 Peacock Bass and one Oscar out of
over 70. Most of them were on the small side, but Richard, Tammie, and
Henry IV were pleased with the trip. I was too, because when I'd get a
bit tired, I could sit down in the shade on a comfortable chair and
doze off.
We finished off Richard and Tammie's visit with a fish fry on Friday, and all of us ate until we were stuffed.
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