Rice and the Cost of Living

Rice is a staple of the Panamanian diet, and the annual per capita consumption in the Republic is 154 pounds, among the highest worldwide.

Although Panama produces rice, production rarely meets demand, and in my experience, local rice is not of the best quality. Nora and I long ago became hooked on Jasmine rice, and since it's just the two of us, we are willing to pay the much higher price for quality. Unfortunately, poor Panamanians cannot afford that option.

Two years ago, the average retail price for a pound of rice was $.30. Today, it's closer to $.60. The last round of price increases saw a 5 pound bag of rice that just one week ago cost between $2.48-$2.60 rise to $2.70-$2.99. The latest excuse for price increases is the higher minimum wage that went into effect less than two weeks ago, joining high fuel costs and El Nino as justification for doubling the price in just two years. The outlook for all food prices is not cheerful, either. The president of the Association of Retailers and Distributors of Groceries (ACOVIPA), Iván Ríos, is not optimistic and says that 'in 2010 the prices of all items in the Canasta Basica, including rice, will rise'. This is especially bad news for the many thousands of Panamanians who work for less than minimum wage, are employed only part-time, or are unemployed.

While these increases will have mostly annoying impact on those of us who are fortunate enough to have income above our needs, it could spell the difference between a healthy diet and malnutrition for many on the bottom economic rungs. At best, it's something to consider when setting the salaries of day maids, handymen, and other part-time workers who have no minimum wage protections.

December 31st was the deadline for all taxis in Panama to be yellow. Since the deadline had already been extended three times, and considering that many non-yellow taxis had joined the fleet since the law was passed, it seemed reasonable for many owners to assume that the deadline would once again be extended, but this time, things were different. There was no extension, and after many drivers were ticketed, the word got out that  the government was serious.


It's amusing to notice the many different shades of yellow, from light pastels to school-bus and even occasionally fluorescent yellows that now adorn the Panama Taxi fleet. It seems that in writing the law, the legislature failed to take into account that there is more than one shade of yellow.

Jose Raul Mulino, Minister of Government in Panama announced a 23.2% increase in murders in 2009 over 2008. He said that there were 806 murders in 2009 and 654 in 2008. Of the 806 murders registered, 114 resulted from gang fights, 92 were executions, and 102 occurred during the commission of robberies.

Though there was no mention of lesser crimes, anecdotal evidence indicates a rise in theft, home invasions, and violence in general.

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I walked the few blocks, or what would have been blocks if Rio San Cocho had blocks, to Juancho and Marita Sanchez's Fonda Soberana, across the street from M/S Chang. The fonda is housed in a small cinder block building with a large window doing double duty as a counter on the street side, with 4 roughly made stools for customers and two tables with 4 chairs each under the tin roofed open area to the side.

Taking a stool, I perused the menu on the back wall. As usual, I chose the Menu Ejecutivo. Today, it consisted of baked chicken, rice, black beans, salad (made with cabbage, tomatoes and mayonaisse) and fried ripe plantains for $1.75. I also ordered an  Atlas Pinta, bringing my total to $2.25. Adding a 10% tip brings it to $2.50. Not the cheapest place in town, but Juancho and Marita have running water, so their dishes tend to be cleaner.

The food was tasty and filling, and since the electricity was off, I wasn't annoyed by loud, distorted salsa music blaring from the radio.

After cleaning my plate, I sauntered back down the town center, and stopped a minute to chat with flirtatious Itzel, a pretty widow with 5 children who sells lottery tickets. Succumbing to her charms, I bought a dollar's worth of chance tickets.

Judging by the shortness of my shadow, I estimated the time at 1:00 PM, so I headed for my cabin and the hammock waiting on the back patio.